Monday, September 29, 2008

Sure-Fire Tips For Crate Training Your Puppy

By James D Nash

Way to many times, many new puppy owners will often fail to realize how important of having a roomy crate for your puppy really is. It is an valuable tool for your pup when it comes to dog training and has many good uses. Puppies in general are rather tiny and have no clue on what to do with larger areas. Keeping the pup's in a crate is a great way to calm him or her down. Furthermore, since small puppies do not typically like to potty where they rest, it will make a great tool for potty training your little guy.

When your new little puppy gets over excited for any reason, placing him inside of it will help the puppy settle down. If you have to leave the puppy alone for a few hours, the pup can very easily cause a little chaos and have accidents on the floor. All of this leads to over excitement in the puppy as well as stress which can be remedied through the act of placing the puppy in the crate while you are gone.

Remembering that puppies are easily distracted by other events around him, feeding the puppy can be a difficult task as well as a messy one. By placing the puppy in it for feeding time, you will be able to minimize the messes as well as the distractions so that your puppy can focus on eating all of his meal.

1) It is very important that the crate you get for the puppy is the right size. If it is too small, the puppy will feel cramped but then again if it is too large, then house breaking the puppy using it will not work. In a large one, a puppy will use to potty on one side of it and sleep on the other which is the exact opposite of what you want him to do which is not potty anywhere in the house.

2) In the event that you have chosen a puppy that will grow in size rather quickly, you may purchase a larger one but only if it comes with a divider to make it the appropriate size for the puppy. This divider can be moved so it will grow as the puppy grows.

3) Keep in mind that even if you purchase the appropriate sized crate for your puppy, if you choose too thick of a bed, the puppy will still potty in it as the bedding will absorb the urine. A simple newspaper bedding is all that a puppy really needs. Once you have properly house broken the puppy then you can get him or her more comfortable bedding.


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Leash Training a Dog

By Vic Lee

Dog leash training will only work with reputation and practice.

If you are training a puppy it can be easier to leash train but if you are training an adult dog you can still successfully teach your dog to walk properly with leash.

Most importantly, make sure you dog is used to wearing a collar or dog harness as this is where the leash is attached to.

At first, you will want to use the leash around the house, where your dog is comfortable. Walk your dog around the house with the leash until it is comfortable and does not bite the leash.

When you are ready to take your dog out for a walk, if it tries to pull on the leash then firmly say No! And if it continues then stop walking and have your dog sit. Do this repetitively. When you dog does behave well make sure you give him treats and appraisals.

There is no need for any roughness in leash training or any kind of training. Remember that going out for walks should be fun for both you and your dog.

Even if your dog pulls on the leash several times, you must remain firm and let your dog know that it is not going anywhere if it does not walk by your side.

With time your dog will understand this, because tugging on the leash in uncomfortable for the dog as well. Also, make sure you practice daily so your dog gets use to walking with a leash.


Learn All About Dog Leash Training with Easy and Free Dog Training Tips.

Understanding Labrador Retrievers - Why a Lab May Not Be the One For You

By Kelly Marshall

Labrador Retrievers are considered people-oriented animals. So, they have to be in tune with their owners in order to follow certain guidelines. In order to understand this, you have to look deeper at what Labs were bred to do, and that is to hunt and retrieve.

You have to think of it this way; these dogs must be in perfect harmony with their hunter/owner in order to follow specific directions to track and find birds that have fallen to the ground. This need for the dog to have hand-held direction links to all aspects of a Labrador's life-even in your home.

This is great for those who want constant canine companionship. Nevertheless, it is bad for dog owners who have a Labrador Retriever but expect their pet to entertain itself with little contact from the owner.

There are many hunting dogs that were bred to be independent hunters with little contact and instruction from people. Examples of these types of dogs are Terriers and Hounds, which are known to lead the way (by smell and sight) with the human hunter determined to keep up with their companion's pace.

This is not how the Labrador is built. Labs are designed to retrieve, and in doing so they must have a connected attention link directly to the hunter. If a retriever ignores the hunter's commands then they may hit the water and swim far past where the bird has fallen, and possibly keep swimming out and away.

Retrievers that are well trained do not make these types of errors because they have the natural ability to attend to and follow thorough directions from the hunter. This skill is very critical to being a trustworthy retriever and is one of the reasons that these dogs make great service animals and obedience trainees.

Reason Why Some Labs Do Not Do Well With Many Families

You can probably understand by now just how connected and dependent a Labrador Retriever becomes to its owners. Retrievers always looks to people for leadership and must have human contact.

It's important to know that every dog breed is sociable to some extent. Some are even more sociable than others, but Labs need a whole log more attention than most dogs. They do not do very well when left alone for prolonged periods of time. A busy family who is away all day and come home to find out that their Lab has destroyed their new window trying to escape does not understand why this is happening.

These people are understandably livid and then chastise their Labs. An educated Lab owner will not act this way because they know better. They know what causes a Lab to try to escape like this and just wants to search out and find its owners. The dog is only considering their "pack" missing and make an attempt to find them outside.

One big lesson to take away from this article, especially if you have not yet decided on what type of dog to own and are thinking about getting a Labrador Retriever, is to make sure that you have plenty of time to devote to your Lab, day and night. If not, then consider a more independent dog breed. Otherwise, your lovable Lab may soon become increasingly unhappy and will end up a very destructive house pet, or worse, a runaway.


Article written by Kelly Marshall from Oh My Dog Supplies - visit for dog food storage containers in every size

Luxated Patella - How to Take Care of Your Dog During & After Treatment

By Kelly Marshall

Even though luxated patella is not considered is not a condition that needs to be treated in the emergency room, getting your dog tested for this problem prevents it from becoming worse. Experts recommend that all dogs should be tested for this condition because a slipped kneecap can affect dogs of all breeds and sizes. On the other hand, if you own a small or a toy dog breed, you should have him tested for luxated patella as soon as possible.

Good breeders should know that this condition is hereditary, and therefore, have their dogs tested at around six weeks of age, preferable before sending them to their new homes.

Treatment Preferences For A Slipped Kneecap

Physical tests and the length of time that the dog is showing symptoms such as limping, skipping, and carrying his leg, will determine his diagnosis. To specify the severity of the condition, an X-ray of the thigh bone and the knee will be carried out.

This type of treatment is not required for Grade I, although you should check your dog in case the problem gets worse. For Grades II, III, and IV, surgery can be performed in order to restore the malformation.

An Orthopedic surgeon performs this kind of surgery and it includes correcting the dog's bone alignment, tightening his joint capsule, and/or deepening the groove where the kneecap rides.

The price for this kind of surgery is around $1,500 - $3,000, depending on the severity of the case.

This is not a dire emergency; however, it is best to consult your vet as soon as possible if your dog is suffering from a slipped kneecap. Your vet will refer you to an orthopedic specialist, if surgery is needed.

If your dog has a condition of Grade II, Grade III, or Grade IV, it is wise to give him the surgery right away before the condition gets worse. Increased damage of the bone and joint may make the outcome of the surgery less successful.

How to Care For Your Dog After The Surgery

Following your dog's surgery, your vet will recommend medications for your dog's pain as well as anti-inflammation to be taken for approximately one week. In addition, your dog will need a lot of rest during this time, meaning very minimal activity for at least 1½ weeks.

Your pet should be kept on the leash when outside your house. Make sure that you keep him in a small and comfortable room to avoid jumping, running around, or other types of activities that can add pressure on his knee.

Last but certainly not least, physical therapy will commence around seven days after the surgery. Take your dog on slow walk s for about five minutes. Another suggestion would be to take him swimming. In due time, your dog should be able to handle longer walks on the leash 6 weeks after the surgery and be able to have complete recovery and regular use of his knee around 15 weeks after his surgery.


Article by Kelly Marshall from Oh My Dog Supplies - to find designer dog beds, visit http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com/dog-supplies/dog-beds/

Leash Training - Got Leash Training Questions? We Got the Answers

By Kelly Marshall

Leash training is enormously underrated by new puppy owners. The procedure of getting your puppy or adult dog used to being on leash is quite simple and just takes just a small amount of your time. This small investment of properly training your puppy to walk graciously on his leash will pay off in the long run, especially if he actually grows up weighing 50 or more pounds.

Answered Leash Training Questions

We receive quite a few questions on a weekly basis from new dog owners that ask me about leash training. They want to know what type of leash is best to use for their dogs. They also want to know what type not to buy, how long they should walk their dog and of course - how to get the dog to stop pulling.

The following information below is a list of a few common leash training questions for your benefit. Keep in mind, that there is no one best way to do anything so when it comes to dog training, whether it involves leash training or other lesson, it is okay to intermingle in your own dog training ideas so long as you keep it very positive. Remember, negative dog training is not recommended and highly discouraged. So, here are a few basic leash training questions:

• How much room should you allow the leash to extend when walking your puppy? According to experts, your puppy or adult dog does not need more than 5 to 6 feet of distance to roam when you are walking him. This is enough room for you to keep control of the situation, while at the same time giving your puppy the opportunity to sniff out small areas along the way.

• What kind of material should your leash be made of? If you walk into any pet store or store that carries pet supplies, you'll discover that many leashes for sale are made of nylon. Nylon is easy to wash and comes in all kinds of pretty colors. On the other hand, they could burn your hand if the dog instantly pulls and the leash moves through your fingers.

We recommendation that you use a leather leash, for example, a 6 foot leash made of leather is the perfect size and material. It is more durable and you will not experience any type of burning sensation if it is pulled by your dog. In addition, the grip is firm and your control is increased.

• What about using chain leashes? Chain leashes are practically indestructible and will last a very long time, but just like nylon material, a chain leash can hurt your hands if the dog yanks hard and your grip slips. In fact, the injury could be much more severe than a nylon burn.

• How wide should the leash be? This answer is very simple. A leash that is approximately ½ inches to ¾ inches is ideal. Try to avoid heavy, bulky leashes.


Written by Kelly Marshall of Oh My Dog Supplies - for the top small dog carriers source, visit http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com/dog-supplies/dog-carriers/

How to Understand Labrador Retrievers - Three Things You Can Always Rely on When Raising a Labrador

By Kelly Marshall

To totally understand the true character of the Labrador Retriever, dog owners must have a solid grip on the three most important aspects that make up this animal's temperament and character.

1. Labs Are Like A Box Of Cookies: The most important thing to understand with Labrador Retrievers is that they are peculiar and not every Lab is the same. A Labrador is like a box of cookies, they come in all sorts and you never know just what you will get as they become adults.

Many Labs demonstrate the same interests in the following: hunting, running, retrieving, and swimming, but oftentimes you may get a Labrador puppy that may completely hate water. If you are lucky enough, your Lab may not have an oral fascination, which causes many of these dogs to eat anything they can get a hold of.

One thing you can positively count on is that every Labrador Retriever is special and through proper training, attention, and love, you will have a wonderful dog that will show the utmost in loyalty and affection until its last day on earth with you.

2. Labs Are Natural Born Hunters: Unlike most other hunting dog breeds, Labs do not just wait for its human hunting companion to command them to retrieve fallen birds. These dogs have to be so love that they can mark the fallen foul themselves.

Many people believe that Labrador Retrievers are more aware of their surroundings than other hunting dogs because of their heritage. When hunting, Labs await for the right signal from their hunter in order to find their prey. While at home, they regularly wait by their owner's side for the next task or command, regardless of what it is. It could be to walk, eat, etc. This is what makes Labrador Retriever dogs just a little too needy for some owners.

3. Labs Must Be Well Trained: As hunters, Labs have to be able to follow specific rules in order to find birds. So, even if they do not have a direction to move in, they will keep hunting without giving up. So, basically, a good Lab literally takes matters into its own hands to get the job finished.

These characteristics are great for dog owners to enjoy having a service dog that can take on its own in certain situations. Alternatively, it's bad for dog owners who are not able of providing absolutely no direction whatsoever. This is where most issues lie with new Labrador owners.

Several people see well-trained Labs at the beach or walking with their owners and think to themselves "I should get one of those dogs. They're so well trained!" Little do they know that these pets are never born trained. It takes regular progressive dedication to exact training protocols, all based on a Labrador's genetic make up. For many people, this can prove too much work for to handle. They will more than likely end up with nothing but issues and annoyance with their dog.


Provided by Kelly Marshall from Oh My Dog Supplies - the largest choice of dog feeders online, visit http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com/dog-supplies/elevated-dog-feeders/

Front Pet Carriers Make Travel Easy

By Johnathan Livingston

When you are heading out on the road with your family for trips of any length, you'll be tempted to take along that most important creature in your household: your pet! Preparing for pet travel can be daunting at times, however, so you'll need to prepare carefully. Fortunately, if you have a small pet, it can be made much easier with the use of front pet carriers.

What is a Front Pet Carrier?

Front pet carriers strap over your back and across your chest and allow you to fit your small dog or cat safely inside. In essence, you'll be carrying them along, similarly to how you would carry along a baby. And since your small pet likely is your baby, this is the perfect solution. These types of pet carriers allow your dog to get a great view of what's going on around them while feeling comforted by being close to you.

Designer pet carriers are often a great option for taking along your pet as well. Finding the right pet carrier depends a lot on the temperament of your pet and how they will react to going along with you. If they're able to be apart from you for awhile, dog carriers that you can roll along or carry along are great options. But for the more clingy pets, front pet carriers are the best option to stay right by your side.

Other Types of Pet Carriers

There are many other types of pet carriers available for you to choose between. If your travels will take you on an airplane, you'll want to look for airline approved pet carriers. These can vary greatly. For smaller pets, it may be okay to take them along in their front pet carriers, as long as they have a secure crate to ride in underneath the seat in front of you during flight.

If your pet is slightly larger, they will need dog carriers that can be checked in with your luggage to ride in the cargo hold of the plane. Carefully prepare ahead of time and you'll know what options for front pet carriers or other travel crates you have to choose between.

For travel that involves a lot of walking, look into pet strollers to take along your dog and cat. You may be able to walk for miles on end, but your small pet may tire out far more easily. Mitigate this issue with a pet stroller that they can bed down in and be comfortable with to ensure that they are by your side every step of the way.

When traveling by car, look into getting a pet car seat to keep your pet safe during travel. It is a bad idea to let them wander around the backseat of your car without strapping them in and a pet car seat can ensure that they are kept safe in many different situations.

What to Take Along

If you will be traveling with your pet, you will need to pack more than just front pet carriers and the pet himself. Prepare carefully ahead of time for what they will need while you are away from home. If you'll be gone over night, dog beds and cat beds are an absolute must. Keep in mind what areas you may be traveling to and through and ensure that you have pet collars for all of your pets. If your pet is a fashionista, you may also want to bring along pet clothes for them to travel in style. This may also be a good thing to have along if you'll be traveling to a very cold climate. Fifi will need a pet sweater to keep her warm while she's riding in front pet carriers through the winter!


Make sure you select the right Front Pet Carriers for your pet. You will find a large selection of Dog Products and articles at Dog House Market. Everything you will ever need for your pet.

Western Dog Shows

By Wendy Pan

The calendar of Western dog shows for 2009 is already on line and contains a full programe of events to keep you busy for the whole of the year. Beginning with the Ladies Kennel Club BC the calendar has 31 events of such variety to whet the appetite of even the fussiest of pooches and their owners. Western dog shows have a very well maintained and updated website that will give you all the information you need to be part of British Colombia's dog showing scene and dates listed are approved by the Canadian Kennel Club. On the home page is a helpful update of the next show to be held and a reminder of the closing date for entries. There is also a links section for other sites the dog owner may be interested in and a list of the current panel of judges. The site has a venue list for the event and a key which will explain which of the five types of dog show it is. For example S for Specialty Show, O, Obedience Trial etc. You can use the on line form for entries and the site gives you contact details for Western dog shows Ltd. Including a phone number for personal contact.

There is something in the Western Dog show calendar to interest every dog show owner breeder and enthusiast. If your new to showing the site links section will direct you to many places which will give you information and interesting articles about showing and about individual dog breeds to whet your appetite and answer some of those questions you will have about showing your dog. Then why not go along to one of the many events and enjoy the day nothing like experiencing the atmosphere and the excitement of a real event. Maybe talking to some owners and seeing how your personal champion compares to others of the breed. So perhaps your love is for dynamic Dobermans those tall haughty creatures carrying the proud Aryan history of their breed with heads held high.

Or for the gentle Golden Retriever with its glowing coat and soft eyes, one of natures most quiet and trusty companions. Maybe you favor the smaller breeds, the cute Cavalier King Charles for example with its sad eyes and long silky coat. You may think you are the owner but where this lovely creature is concerned you are definitely the one who is owned as the minute you look into those soft brown eyes you belong to them for life. Does your enthusiasm lead you to the proud pedigree Pug, this punctilious little creature such a character and full of life will have you enjoying your show ring experience as much as he does. So if you have a native Newfoundland who is keen to show of his local pedigree or a sensational Samoyed whose origins lie on the other side of the globe the Western Dog shows site is the place for you.


Wendy Pan is an accomplished niche website developer and author. To learn more about western dog shows, please visit Dog Show Exhibits for current articles and discussions.

How to Remove Ticks and Brush Teeth Properly For Your Dogs and Golden Retrievers

By Paul Kramer

As you examine your dog, check also for ticks that may have lodged in his skin, particularly around the ears or in the hair at the base of the ear, the armpits or around the genitals. If you find a tick, which is a small insect about the size of a pencil eraser when engorged with blood, smear it with petroleum jelly.

As the tick suffocates, it will back out and you can then grab it with tweezers and kill it. If the tick does not back out, grab it with tweezers and slowly pull it out, twisting very gently. Do not just grab and pull or the tick's head may remain in the skin, causing an infection or abscess for which veterinary treatment may be required.

A word of caution, do not use your fingers or fingernail to pull out the tick. Ticks can carry a number of diseases including Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever and others, all of which can be very serious.

Regular brushing of the teeth often does not seem necessary when a dog is young and spends much of his time chewing; the teeth always seem to be immaculately clean. As a dog ages, it becomes more important to brush the teeth daily.

To help prolong the health of your dog's mouth, he should have his teeth cleaned twice a year at a veterinary clinic. Observing the mouth regularly, checking for the formation of abnormalities or broken teeth, can lead to early detection of oral cancer or infection.

One of the worst enemies of a Golden's teeth is the habit or chewing on his coat. The coarse hairs wear down the front teeth like nothing else he might chew. The only way to prevent this from occurring is to stop the dog from chewing.


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How to Do Proper Ear, Nails and Eyes Care For Your Dogs and Golden Retrievers

By Paul Kramer

Another weekly job is cleaning the ears. Many times an ear problem is evident if a dog scratches his ears or shakes his head frequently. Clean ears are less likely to develop problems, and if something does occur, it will be spotted which it can be treated easily.

If a dog's ears are very dirty and seem to need cleaning on a daily basis, it is a good indication that something else is going on in the ears besides ordinary dirt and the normal accumulation or earwax.

A visit to the veterinarian may indicate a situation that needs special attention.

The nails on all feet should be kept short enough so they do not touch the ground when the dog walks.

Dogs with long nails can have difficulty walking on hard or slick surfaces. This can be especially true of older dogs. As nails grow longer, the only way the foot can compensate and retain balance is for the toes themselves to spread apart, causing the foot itself to become flattened and splayed.

Nails that are allowed to become long are also more prone to splitting. This is painful to the dog and usually required surgical removal of the remainder of the nail for proper healing to occur.

A Golden's eyes rarely need special attention. A small amount of matter in the corner of the eye is normal, as is a bit of tearing. Goldens with eyelashes that turn inward and rub against the eye itself often exhibit more tearing than normal due to the irritation to the eyes.

These eyelashes can be surgically removed if it appears to be a problem, but are often ignored. Excessive tearing can be an indication that a tear duct is blocked. This, too, can be corrected by a simply surgical procedure.

Eye discharge that is thicker and mucous like in consistency is often a sign of some type of eye infection or actual injury to they eye. This can be verified by a veterinarian, who will provide a topical ointment to place in the corner of the eye.

Most minor eye injuries heal quickly if proper action is taken.


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Sunday, September 28, 2008

CPR Exists For Dogs

By Norma Crozier

CPR for dogs is logical and the same idea as for humans. Your dog depends on you for many things and it may come a time he will depend on you for his life as well.

If your dog's heart stops because of an injury or illness you want to know what to do in the situation the same as if it was a human being. Pets are so much a part of our lives that you should and want to do as much as you can to help them out. They deserve to be aided if they are hurt or ill. That is why knowing CPR for dogs is just as important as for a person.

These are the steps to follow in performing CPR on your dog.

  • Check for a heartbeat by looking at the dog's chest to see if it is moving or by placing your ear against the dog's chest to listen for a heartbeat. A dog' s heart is located where the left elbow touches the chest. You then place your hand in front of the dog' s nose to determine if the dog is breathing and if he does not respond then it is time to move to the next step
  • This is the time that you check the dog's airway to be sure there is nothing lodged there and that the airway is clear. You then pull the tonque forward out of his mouth. Move his head in line with his neck to open the airway. Do this gently.
  • The next step is to breath into the dog's nose and watch to see if his chest expands. Breath enough air into the dog' s nose to cause his chest to rise. You will find large dogs need more air. The rate is one breath for every three seconds. You continue this rate of breathing into the dog' s nose
  • If the dog' s chest does not rise when you do this then check in his mouth again to see if there is any objects that may be blocking his airway. If necessary perform the Heimlich maneuver by turning the dog upside down. His back will be against your chest and use both arms to give five strong sharp hugs to the abdomen until the object is expelled. This reflects with the same idea as a person. If an object can be seen then reach in and removed it from a dog's airway. Do not start the chest compressions until the airway is clear.
  • Start compressions by turning the dog gently on to his right side (recovery position). Your heel of your hand should be placed on the chest over the heart and place the other hand palm down on top. Compress the dog's chest 15 times at a rate of three compressions every two seconds. Press down about 1 inch for medium -sized dogs, press harder for large dogs, more gently for small dogs and keep in mind that a dog's ribs could be broken. You should alternate compressions and breathing at a rate of two breaths after every 15 compressions.
  • Continue CPR until the dog has a heartbeat and is breathing regularly. The dog should then be taken to the vet as soon as he is stable. If you find that performing the CPR is not helping then take the dog to an emergency animal hospital ASAP or the nearest vet if an emergency hospital is not available.

Performing CPR for dogs has the same basic idea as for a person rates and as with a person of different sizes and ages the rate differs. Your dog is very much a part of your life as a person so why wouldn't you try to save your dog if they were in trouble. They are loyal loving animal who would if they could save you if the situation was reversed.


Author: N.Crozier owner of http://www.heavenpeturns.com Visit us and find a quality pet cremation memorial urn that not only shows your love and respect for your pet dog, cat, bird, rabbit any family pet you may have but what they deserve. We sell pet urns in styles of wood, photo, brass, dog cat urns, garden grave memorial markers, cremation jewelry keepsakes, Rainbow Bridge pet urns, memorial poem pet urns, customized pet urns, personalized pet urns and support for pet loss. E-Cards, engraving and discounts.

What's Worrying the Modern Dog?

By Nancy Holwell

The psychological unraveling of Monty, an eight-year-old McNab mix, began with a trip out of town. Eight months after San Francisco resident Anne Walzer adopted him from a shelter, she went on her first vacation without him, leaving him in a neighbor's care. Within a day, the affectionate and fastidiously housetrained dog had his first housesoiling accident and nipped a housecleaner.Alarmed, Walzer cancelled her trip and rushed home. But things only got worse. Neighbors in her apartment building started pressuring her to get rid of the dog and Monty, she says, soaked up her considerable stress. Where before he'd been slightly jumpy around loud noises, he now went into full-fledged panic attacks.

Monty begins shutting down

He started refusing to walk in certain parts of what had been a favorite hiking spot after getting spooked by loud bangs. Eventually, he dug in his heels and refused to go at all. "I tried to fool him with new routes and treats," says Walzer. "Then I waited four months and tried again. Even then he just wouldn't get out of the car." Walks around their neighborhood became increasingly short. Eventually, Monty's world was confined to the two blocks outside Walzer's apartment. When asked to step outside his safety zone, Monty went into what Walzer calls 'civil disobedience mode'--flopping down on the sidewalk and going limp. When scared by a noise, he would bolt or drag Walzer home. "It's like being pulled by a team of draft horses," she says. "I eventually developed elbow problems."

Anxiety on the rise?

Monty would once have been considered a canine oddball, a furry freak, an unusually challenging dog. But talk to enough trainers and vets and you get a different picture. Although Monty's case is an extreme one, his psychological troubles are anything but rare. No one tracks how many dogs suffer from canine anxiety, but experts peg the rate at somewhere around 30 percent and, many say, probably rising. In its wake, a whole new industry has sprung up to serve the owners of anxious Beagles, Chihuahas, and mutts, with everything from canine lullaby CDs to stress-relieving alternative remedies and pharmaceuticals. "It's almost impossible to get a handle on whether canine anxiety is on the rise--it wasn't tracked in the past, and people diagnose it differently," says well-known behaviorist Patricia McConnell, author of The Other End of the Leash. "But it's reasonable to speculate that the problem is growing. These days, the conditions that make dogs anxious--not giving them enough stimulation or exercise, for instance--are very common."

Why Fido frets

A canine anxiety epidemic seems out of sync with a world that includes organic food, daycare centers, and memory foam beds for that special canine in your life. There are dating sites for people partial to spending their free time with dogs and travel agencies that can plan entire vacations around you and your dog. In canine-obsessed times such as these, how bad could a dog's life be? The truth is that most dogs aren't along for the ride. Even the ones lucky enough to be adopted by responsible people spend a good part of their lives inside and on their own. They're waiting for someone to come home, and they're lonely. "With both parents working, dogs are left alone for much of the day," says veterinarian Nicolas Dodman, head of the Animal Behavior Department at Tufts University and co-founder of ThePetDocs.com. "And since dogs are social animals they don't do well in isolation." Even when people are home, they're often distracted by everything they need to catch up on after a day away. And all that time on the phone, the Blackberry, or the computer takes time away from exercising, playing, and just plain hanging out with your dog. Needless to stay, it can all leave dogs feeling a little...anxious.

Sloppy breeding worsens problem

Here's another reason the modern dog is more anxious than ever: careless breeding. America's love affair with dogs has led to a higher demand for them, and the unhappy result is a thriving puppy mill industry. These huge breeding operations churn out masses of purebred and designer hybrid dogs, with little concern for what a puppy's temperament or disposition could or should be. The vast majority of these unskilled breeders are aiming for a particular look instead. In the process, they're accidentally creating whole dynasties of nervous or neurotic dogs. The conditions these pups are born into, crowded with dogs but thin on opportunities for human interaction, only exacerbate the problem. "Puppy mill puppies are around lots of other dogs but get no contact with people so they miss out on socialization completely," says Patricia McConnell. "Then they land in homes where they're by themselves all day without any other dogs." Without being taught coping skills, these pups are prone to becoming nervous, which in turns leads to behavioral problems, such as destructive chewing, excessive barking, and separation anxiety.

What anxiety looks like

There are many ways a dog's anxiety can manifest itself. Monty's noise phobia is a common one, as is fear of certain types of people, often men, and travel. But separation anxiety is the biggest anxiety disorder by far, accounting for about half of all cases. Symptoms range from signs of unease, such as heavy drooling, to all-out panic that can leave the house, and the dog, in tatters. Patricia McConnell remembers one such case vividly. "She was my first separation anxiety client--a Shar-Pei named Peaches," McConnell says. "When I arrived, her face looked like raw hamburger. She'd tried to chew her way out of her metal crate."

No holiday for Monty

After Monty nipped the housekeeper, Walzer knew she needed help fast, so she signed up for training sessions with acclaimed San Francisco-based trainer Donna Duford to work on getting Monty comfortable around strangers. They quickly discovered that Monty loved to learn and perform tricks, and started bringing in strangers to watch. Slowly, Monty began to enjoy performing in front of spectators. Still, the simplest bang--a street car backfiring, say, or something falling to the ground--sent Monty right back into his shell, and it took an awful lot of work to coax him out again. "After the Fourth of July, he refused to go out more than once a day until Thanksgiving," says Walzer. "Then the New Year's Eve fireworks came around. I'd leave the country with him during these holidays if I could." Finally, Duford told Walzer what she didn't want to hear: there was something physically wrong with Monty, something that couldn't be fixed by training. Her dog needed medication.

This is your dog on Prozac

Monty's not alone. Although training is crucial in treating anxiety, as noted by New Jersey-based trainer Kathy Santo, who appears frequently on the Martha Stewart show, a dog too panicked to learn won't get very far. "I prefer to avoid drugs, but if you're at the point where your dog's quality of life is in the toilet," she says, "I'm absolutely for it." There are two drugs marketed specifically for canine anxiety. In 1999, the FDA approved Novartis's Clomicalm, the first medication for canine separation anxiety, and in 2007 Eli Lilly's Reconcile became the second. Despite the doggie advertisements, packaging, and labeling, they're basically meat-flavored versions of human anti-depressants. How well do they work for dogs? That depends on what you use them for, says Dodman. Ironically, Reconcile and Clomicalm do a much better job soothing a dog who's aggressive than the one hiding under the bed. Aggression that's fear-based gets slightly less impressive results, while about half of dogs with thunderstorm phobia get some relief. Dogs with obsessive behaviors, such as repetitive licking, sometimes improve, and sometimes do not. As for separation anxiety, the disorder the drugs are actually marketed for, Nicholas Dodman says it's not the miracle pill owners are hoping for. "If you combine it with a behavior modification plan, which they recommend you do, the drugs may help you get where you're going sooner; it may take you two months instead of three," he says. "Still, it's a bit disappointing." Unfortunately, chances are slim that better drugs are on the horizon. Because vets can prescribe any drug, whether for humans or animals, new canine drugs compete with generic forms of the human equivalent. This means pharmaceutical companies have little financial incentive to fork over the big bucks it takes to research new drugs and get FDA approval. "Ultimately, it comes down to a financial decision," says Dodman. And most companies appear to be deciding against it.

No easy solutions

For Monty, medication certainly didn't turn out to be a miracle cure. Last year, Walzer started him on Zoloft; she added melatonin after the Fourth of July, and a few months later, Xanax, after Duford said she'd seen dogs improve on a cocktail of the three drugs. Throughout, she kept a close, hopeful eye on Monty for signs of improvement.He has mellowed somewhat. "I haven't seen that tension around strangers for a long time," she says. "And about a month after I added the melatonin, I was able to get him to go out for two walks a day instead of just one." She doesn't know how much of it is due to her continued training with Duford and how much to the drugs. She's prepared to tinker with the drugs and the dosages and the training until she's got something close to what she wants: a dog who's not afraid of the world outside their apartment. "Nothing's gotten me to where I want to go," she says, and Monty continues to try her patience at times. "But I'm sticking with him," says Walzer. "If you met him, and know him the way I do, you'd see why."

-By Sierra Senyak, a senior editor at DogTime


Training a Gundog Isn't Hard - Lesson 5 - Know What You Are Aiming For

By Ken Devonald

We Now Come To The Splitting Of The Trails between the different classes of gundogs.

Where the dog is used solely for the purpose of retrieving, you will not need to study the hunting sections, and instead will concentrate on improving the dog's performance on retrieving. This will involve building a relationship of trust, where the dog believes you when you tell it that there really is a bird down, even when she has not seen it. This will involve handling the dog out to both seen and unseen retrieves, giving the dog exposure to following blood trails, improving the dog's memory by building up the numbers of dummies thrown.

The hunting breeds need careful consideration. Although both the Spaniels and the Pointers need to cover their ground in similar fashion, working across the wind, turning at the end of their beat and crossing in front of the shooter until game is found, there are still fundamental differences.

The spaniels work very much closer, generally with a beat of 20-25 yards either side of the gun. They will barely pause once the game is located, crashing through the undergrowth to flush immediately. This is the reason they have to work so close, to allow the gun an opportunity to take a snap shot before the quarry is out of range, which is normally between 35-40 yards of the gun. For this reason, the dog's beat has to be well taught - once the dog encounters game it will invariably hot up, and this will result in it stretching the beat somewhat.

Once a spaniel has successfully flushed game that has been shot, it will generally these days be expected to retrieve the game, whether it is killed cleanly or is a runner. In thick cover, this may involve handling the dog out to a blind retrieve, or onto a blind blood trail. There was a time when spaniels were not expected to retrieve, but generally speaking it is now fairly standard to use a spaniel for both purposes.

Now onto my personal favourite, the HPR breeds, those that hunt, point and retrieve.

Although these breeds are used for hunting, their style is not normally as bustling and exciting as spaniel work in close cover; rather their style is graceful and looks deceptively slow; they actually cover the ground very quickly, but because of the distance they often work at, the excitement is in their grace rather than their speed.


Ken Devonald has two German Shorthaired Pointers and has previously trained spaniels. He lives and works in the Scottish Borders, where he has plenty of opportunities to train his dogs to work rabbits.

He is currently developing a Gundog Training Site, which you can visit here!

Choosing the Correct Breed For You

By Geoffrey English

Some people choose a particular dog breed because they like the way it looks. Appearance is only one of many factors you should consider. Here are some tips to help you find the right breed for you.

Identify your needs and lifestyle before you start looking at puppies.

Answering these questions will help you choose a breed that fits your family's lifestyle. Do you have children? What are their ages? Some breeds do well with young children and others don't. Do you have a home or an apartment? Some breeds need room to roam, some are couch potatoes.

Is your yard fenced or will you have to take your dog for walks? You might not want to walk a huge dog several times a day. How much time can you spend with your dog? If you're gone most of the day, choose a breed that doesn't mind being alone for long periods of time.

Are you an active person or a couch potato? Be honest. Do you spend a lot of time outdoors? Choose a breed that matches your energy level. Where will your dog be spending most of his time? Outside or inside? If outside, make sure the breed you choose can handle the temperature changes in your area.

There are many factors to consider when looking at dog breeds. Once you've identified your families needs, it's time to start researching breeds. One caveat: Breeders raise a particular breed of dog because they love that breed. They truly believe that their breed of dog is the best. Do your research before you visit a breeder.

How do you find the perfect breed for you? Armed with your family's "lifestyle profile", read and research breeds that interest you. Here are some important points to consider:

Size

How big will this dog get? Look at height and weight. Even though a Bulldog is short, it can weigh 50+ pounds as an adult. Can you lift a 50 pound dog? Perhaps you think a little dog would be the perfect choice for a family with little kids. Maybe not. Small dogs have small bones that are easily broken if stepped on. Dog breeds come in every shape and size. Find one that fits your needs.

Hair and Grooming

Do you want a long-haired or short-haired dog? The amount of grooming each breed requires varies greatly. On one end of the spectrum you have the easy care coats. These breeds need an occasional wipe down with a damp cloth and a bath once or twice a year. On the other end, you have coats that need extensive grooming and care. Afghan Hounds, for instance, require daily grooming. From the time an Afghan puppy is 8 weeks old you can expect frequent baths, cream rinses and daily brushing to prevent tangles. Most dogs fall somewhere in between. Decide how much time and money you want to spend on your dog's grooming needs.

Energy level

How much exercise will your dog require as an adult? Will a game of fetch be enough to wear him out? Some smaller breeds are easily exercised indoors. Dog breeds are separated into groups. Breeds in the Working and Herding groups, for example, are usually high energy and require lots of exercise. This is not the rule, however, so be sure to read everything you can about your chosen breed.

Doing your research before you shop for a puppy is the easiest way to minimize frustration later on. Now you can be sure that you and the breed you choose are a good fit for each other.


Geoffrey A. English is the Founder of GundogsOnline.com, the internet's premiere online magazine dedicated to hunting dogs. Visit their site for more information on training bird dogs and dog training supplies including a wide variety of electronic dog collars and shock collars.

How to Train Your Dog For Agility Competitions

By Gary Pearson

Dogs have been bred for different circumstances and different aspects of pet health. Some are bred for hunting, others for working, and some have a natural ability for agility. Breeds like border collies and greyhounds are known for their agility. However, any dog and anyone can go through agility training successfully. To begin, you will need to do your homework on agility training, if this is your first time training. There are plenty of resources on the internet and at your local library but working with another agility dog trainer can help you learn how to properly train dogs in agility training. Reading up on agility training first will better preparing you for working with professional agility dog trainers.

Knowing your dog's personality, temperament and current pet health will best help you in your agility training. Knowing how to work with your dog will save you time and energy. Dogs need to have great focus and attention, so if your dog is not the greatest at paying attention, you may have to first obedience train, then agility train. Certain equipment is used during competitions, and aligning with a professional dog trainer can also save you time and money when it comes to equipment. Professional trainers will have training areas already equipped and may rent out their areas to other dog trainers. If you are serious about agility training and competing, then seek high quality equipment, with another professional agility trainer in tow. A second opinion when purchasing agility equipment can mean the difference between wasting money and winning prizes.

Once you have either your own equipment or an arena in which to train your dog, remember to have patience with your dog and keep their temperament in mind when training. Each dog has their own personality embedded into their pet health, so what works with one dog will not always work for another. Seeking the advice of a professional dog trainer will help you better determine the proper technique in training your dog. The best reward for dog training is treats, but give them treats which are appropriate for your pet health regiment. You do not want to give a dog preservative filled treats when you are asking them to do high energy tasks. Make sure to offer them treats which will compliment their need for constant energy.

Food is a great motivator for learning, as are other treats, depending on your dog's personality. If your dog has a favorite toy, you can use it as a motivator as well. Clickers will help pace dog agility as well and manage their attention. Dog sports are fast becoming a popular sport for both dog and owner. A properly trained dog can excel in competitions and exhibitions. There are competitions throughout cities, states, and even throughout the country. If you have the time and patience, agility training is a great way to bond with your dog and can create wonderful memories for you and your family. Just have fun with it and enjoy your time with your dog.


Gary Pearson is an accomplished niche website developer and author.

To learn more about agility training visit Pet Health Education for current articles and discussions.

How to Crate Train Puppies

By Gary Pearson

A new puppy means puppy potty training, particularly if the puppy is going to be an indoor dog. Puppies are inclined to potty where they see fit, because they have not been trained otherwise. Crate training can be an effective way to potty train your puppy without unnecessary psychological damage. Crate training involves placing a puppy within a crate for periods of time. Puppies and dogs do not generally use the restroom where they sleep, and crate training helps establish areas of sleeping domain. By keeping a puppy in a crate until it is time to use the bathroom, puppies will learn that using the bathroom inside the house is not proper. It can be a long process, depending on the puppy's temperament.

Keep an eye out for times when the puppy may piddle inside, as this can be an indication as to a schedule the puppy is already on and one you can work within. Housebreaking is a confusing time for both puppy and owner, so try to keep a firm even tone when instructing the puppy to potty outside. Be establishing a schedule and adhering to it will greatly assist the puppy in learning. Remember that puppies have a small bladder and it is just as painful for them as it is for you when you have to go to the bathroom. So be mindful and respectful of their needs. This will help you build a trust and a rapport with your puppy that can make your housebreaking more successful.

The benefits of crate training make for a happier and healthier household. When a dog understands his boundaries, he can be more affection and loving towards the family he is part of. Remember, crate training is indeed a long process for both dog and owner. Puppies are still curious creatures and not also the most attentive because of it, so have patience with them. Rewarding them for proper behavior and piddling outside the house can reinforce the wanted behavior and assist your training to be successful.

Techniques like paddling or rubbing your puppy's nose in their piddle does not work, so please, do not use them. It only confuses and scares your puppy, which you do not want a puppy that is scared and confused where you are concerned. It can also created unnecessary anxiety for your puppy, reinforcing the negative behavior you are trying to negate. They are as vulnerable and innocent as children, combined with the added confusion of the language barrier between dog and owner; puppies can easily find themselves perplexed. Just take crate training one day at a time, offer love and affection to your puppy and both of you will be successful in all that you do.


Gary Pearson is an accomplished niche website developer and author.

To learn more about crate training puppies visit Pet Health Education for current articles and discussions.

Dog Training Equipments - Which Are Best?

By Veronica Valentine

The market is flooded with dog training tools and mechanisms, and it is enough to confuse a new dog owner. Which of the harnesses is the best for your dog? What about the halters? And there are so many types of collars; it is enough to drive a new dog owner crazy. So which dog training equipments are the best for you and your dog? Harnesses, so do you need one? Is it necessary for pet health? Maybe not, but dog harnesses are best if you will be training a dog for a certain job. Harnesses are typically used in dog training for sleighs and for working dogs, which will be using the harness for practical purposes. Working sight dogs or handicapped dogs will use harnesses to carry objects for their masters, so their hands are free. Harnesses are not practical for any dogs other than working dogs, as they are cumbersome and have a tendency to pull. They are not ideal to train the average household family dog.

There are many types of collars to train your dog with: choke collars, bark collars, and remote training collars. However effective, collars can be tremendously tedious and time consuming. Most dogs do not respond well to collars and can actually be counterproductive, causing undesirable behavior within your dog. Mainly because dog owners use collars inappropriately and in the wrong position, which can cause pain and stress to the dog. If you are going to introduce collars to your dog, seek the advice of a trained professional, as they can show the most effective ways to use a collar without harming your dog.

Should you or shouldn't you harness your dog? If it is in response to concerns for your pet's health, yes. Halters rarely retrain a dog, instead it gives a dog owner better control over the dog while on a leash. A halter fits over the head and nose and when used in combination with a leash, can cause a dog to halt when pulled. The use of halters allows better control for seniors and small children, since the dog will respond to the slight pull. When used in combination with other dog training equipments, like clickers, dogs can begin to associate sounds with actions.

Dog training equipment - is it for you? You can spend a lot of time, energy and money on training tools, but what is truly required is your consistency. Being consent with your dog will help the dog to learn the process and the behavior that you desire. Before choosing a piece of equipment, consider your dog's breed personality, size and needs. This will help you better gauge the type of dog training equipment needed to help you train them properly. You will also need to monitor the safety of the equipment you purchase to ensure proper pet health. You wouldn't want you dog getting injured. Following these few tips can help you maintain a proper and safe pet health system for your four legged friends.


Veronica Valentine is an accomplished niche website developer and author. To learn more about dog training, please visit My Dog Supplies for current articles and discussions.

How To Train A Dog To Sit

By Nick Kater

However lovely and cute a puppy looks, if it is not obedient, then the owner will feel the pinch. However, dog training is not as difficult as it seems to be, provided that the trainer has the patience to teach the animal. Remember, this is just a dog and it does not understand your language. Verbal cues alone will not work out and so you have to demonstrate and act for each command. The dog then relates the visual action to the verbal command. So, it would take time for the do identify with your commands.

Professional trainers believe that the best time to teach a dog to sit is when they are 3 months old. Catch them young and mold them to be obedient to your orders. You can, however, start training the puppy even just after 4 weeks or once it starts moving around with people. It is better to start training the dog at a young age itself, so that it is easy for the puppy to grasp the commands.

To begin with, let the training session be short. Also, make it an engaging and entertaining session by playing with the dog and rewarding it with a pat, new toy or even some treats. Keep the training schedule simple and give enough time for the dog to comprehend and practice the commands. Do not confuse the dog with too many commands. In case of young puppy, show it how to sit and once it is about to press its back on the floor, you help the animal by forcing it to sit comfortably. It might be in a dilemma and your simple help would make things easy. When it sits, repeat the command "Sit" many times loudly for the dog to hear it clearly. Repeat this verbal command and demonstration several times for the dog to register in the brain.

Now, this method may not essentially work with the grown up dogs. In case of a little grown up puppies, you need to apply different techniques to make them sit. For instance; take your dog's favorite treat and sway it in front of the pet above its nose and head in circular motion in such a way that the dog is close to a sitting posture.


Looking for quality tips on training your dog, visit http://www.dogtrainingbooksreviews.com/. If you are looking for the most recommended online course on training your dog, you should read this review of Dog Training Online.

The Golden Retriever Characteristics

By Kevin William

In a dog's world, Golden Retrievers are simply the fatal attraction. They are a preferred dog breed, making great pets, hunting dogs, obedience competitors, show dogs, and even a combination of all these traits. No matter what your intent may be to own a Golden Retriever, you'll have an excellent dog that will live up to it's potential and then some.

Golden Retrievers are calm, well mannered, and extremely affectionate. They are easy to train as well, very intelligent, and great for those who need a companion. Golden's are also loyal to their owners, lovable, and great with children of all ages. They also make great watchdogs as well, as they will bark loud and let you know when a stranger is near.

Like other dogs, Golden Retrievers will shed their hair throughout the year and more in the spring - no matter how many times you brush them a day. They also like to be in and near the water, similar to Labs. If you have any type of water on or near your property, your Golden Retriever will be in it, and tend to be either wet or muddy quite a bit - which can tend to get frustrating.

If you are always on the go or never at home, you shouldn't get a Golden Retriever. If you prefer cats over dogs, you should look into another breed. Golden Retrievers crave attention and admiration, and normally don't do too well if you leave them at home by themselves for long periods of time. Golden's need attention, and desire to be around you at all times. If you spend a lot of time at home on the other hand, or have kids, a Golden Retriever will be a perfect addition to your family.

A lot of people out there prefer to get a puppy and raise it themselves. This way, the puppy will grow up with the skills they have taught him. This is a great idea and very rewarding, although it can consume a lot of your time and tend to be very frustrating at times. Those who don't have a lot of time to spare or tend to get easily frustrated, shouldn't get a puppy. Instead, they should look towards an older Golden Retriever who has already been house broken and trained.

Golden Retrievers are an excellent breed, and they can provide you with the companion you have been looking for. They can participate in several activities with you as well, such as hiking, camping, and walking. Golden's love the outdoors, and they love just getting out there and doing things with you and your family. If you include your Golden Retriever in family activities - you'll have a friend for life who will quickly grow on you over the years.


Kevin William is the owner of topdogbook.com For further recommended resources on how to start a profitable dog business that is Guaranteed to jumpstart you to how to be a good dog training and get your newsletter for free.

Walking Your Dog

By David Poh

Do you walk your dog?

It is important that you walk your dog at least once daily.

Your dog needs the daily exercise for health reasons and also it will take the boredom away from it else it is likely to be mischievous during the day; like digging your garden, chewing on things around the house, barking for your attention to play. After the walk, it is likely to rest peaceful during the day and it is not so restless.

Whether it is a small or big dog, it needs the daily walk.

Besides the exercise, your dog also gets to explore the surroundings and also socialize with who you come across during the walk; like your neighbors and possibly their dogs too, or even strangers around the housing area. Socializing your dog is also an important part of training your dog.

I recommend that you do it at the same time daily; like early in the morning or after dinner at night. You should also take the opportunity to toilet train your dog to pooh during the walk. Please remember to bring along some plastic bags or newspaper to pick up its pooh.

How long or far should you walk your dog?

Well, you need to make some judgments depending on the size of your dog. You may not walk too far for a small dog compared to a bigger dog. You should also take the age of the dog into consideration too, as the older dog even if it is a big dog, is likely not to have the same stamina as before.

If you tend to have a long walk as part of your routine or the route is such that there is no short-cut to it, then remember to let the dog rest and you may even want to carry a bottle of water and a small bowl for a water break.

What do you need for the walk?

I recommend that you leash your dog no matter how well it is trained as there could be people who are not comfortable with dogs, big or small ones. In Singapore, it is against the law and the owner could be fined if his dog is not leashed in public.

Please bring along some newspaper or plastic bags to pick up your dog pooh, if the park does not provide such pooh bags.

A bottle of water and a small bowl may be required, depending on the distance you intend to cover and also your dog too.

I have seen people jogging or cycling with their dogs, small or big ones, in the park and I noticed the poor dogs are having a hard time keeping up with their owners. Their tongues are hanging out of their mouths and some are even being dragged along too. I think you should avoid stressing your dogs unless you have done it often and you are aware of their stamina. They should be running by your side effortlessly.

I have 2 dogs and I either walk them separately or together as one is a 10 years old beagle and the other dog is a 5 years old corgi, a smaller dog. The beagle has better stamina than the corgi but it has also slowed down due to his age. They look forward to it daily and they are now trained to pooh at the same time too.


David Poh has a Beagle and a Corgi dog. He has a website where he shares his experiences and tips on caring for dogs. For more information and to view photos and videos on his dogs, go to http://davidpoh.com/

Dog Names Are Very Personal - Just Ask Your Dog!

By Val C Heart

Most people will name their dogs a common name without finding out what their much loved dog friend wants to be called. According to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), the top 10 pet names are; Max, Sam, Lady, Bear, Smokey, Shadow, Kitty, Molly, Buddy and Brandy.

Have you ever felt that the name you are calling your animal friend is somehow not right, or doesn't fit them, or noticed that they didn't respond to it? Maybe you've got the wrong name.

You may not know it but animals do occasionally change their names. Different cultures traditionally have allowed individuals to earn a new name during rites of passage or in vision quests. Animals also can choose different aspects of themselves to embrace at different times of their lives as they mature or go through phases. It's not uncommon for a shelter animal to want a new name when they go to a new home or choose a new family.

I recently worked with a client who wanted to invite a new dog into her life (after her older dog gave his approval and support for the idea which is always a good thing to do, of course). So I helped them work with the first few dogs, who all turned out to not be right for them at all.

The next dog they attracted felt really wonderful even though she had some problems. A shelter foster dog, she came to them with the name of Sophie, but my client just got the sense that wasn't her real name. So she kept asking and trying different names.

Nothing worked until one day she 'heard' a name pop into her head. "Penny! My name is Penny!" When she tried that name with the new dog, she immediately got an enthusiastic response which proved to her without a doubt what her new friend wanted to be called.

There are many other critically important reasons to talk with your animal too, especially if you are considering taking in a new companion. For instance, only they can tell you their true history and background. Who else will know but them, right?

Communicating also helps them understand new house rules, and provides an opportunity to negotiate behavior. We also need to know about their training background, their learning styles, what they feel their purpose is, what they like or don't like.

You'll also want to know if they feel there is a good fit between you. Please don't take on an animal just because they are cute or remind you of an animal you had before. If they don't feel connected to you, then regardless of how hard you try, neither of you will be truly happy together.

Communication with animals also helps them heal from past trauma or abuse, eases the transition time, and supports them while they grieve the loss of the family they lost.

So do yourself and your animal friends a favor and give them a voice. You'll be glad you did.


Val Heart, Expert Animal Communicator, Behaviorist, Author, Master Healer -- Providing Communication, Clarity, Balance and Healing for You and Your Animal. Are you Ready? Take a pro-active approach to improving their relationships with themselves & their animals through improved communication, energy medicine, health & balance for body, mind & spirit. Working with chronic pain, illness, trauma, training, behavior, performance, euthanasia... sport horses: dressage, hunter jumper, reining, cutting...
Speaker, Teacher, Columnist, seen on TV and heard on radio. Animal TeleClasses, Free Expert Animal Communication eTips & Free eNewsletter. Call (210) 863-7928, visit http://www.valheart.com Get Val's Free Report: 10 Things You Must Know Before Hiring An Animal Communicator http://www.valheart.com/animalcommunication/freereport.html

The Million "Barks" Project

By Matthew Goodman

Did you know an estimated 6 to 8 million dogs and cats are euthanized each year?... I knew the number was high, but that's ridiculously high. Every year, a "Pet Holocaust" is occuring!!!....

While this blog tends to highlight the lighter side of doggy issues, this statistic is not funny at all ... And it should serve as a wake up call to dog lovers and pet enthusiasts worldwide.

It woke me up... It woke me up like one of Watson's loudest barks.

This is a serious issue... And it demands serious attention RIGHT NOW!

I'm an impatient ASS! So lets get straight to the facts:

We already know that 61% of households in the U.S. don't own a dog (*humane society).... So I did the math and figured that to be about 20 million households who don't own a dog.

Now if a quarter of those households were to adopt a dog this year, the pet overpopulation problem would be solved... just like that!

But we have to be realistic. we're not going to persuade every household in America to adopt a dog... not even a quarter of them.

So let's re-calibrate - What if we strive for just 5% of those 20 million - That's one million households... If we persuaded them, that would mean 1 million dogs saved

So how do we do that?

1. We need to establish a grassroots effort like never before...

2. We need to do it with passion and charisma...

3. We need a catchy name....

That's why I've come up with = "The Million 'Barks' Project"

We humans need to Bark!... And we need to bark LOUD - louder than our dogs... We also need to bark as one - As one large, powerful dog loving community.

In the coming months, I'm going to set up a Barkathon, as well as numerous other activities to make the public more aware of this troubling situation.

I invite you to bark with me and join "The Million Barks Project".


http://www.thingsmydogate.com - "The Daily Dog Tail"

The Best Things in Life Aren't Things

By Matthew Goodman

I was walking to the park with my dog Watson yesterday when I noticed a bumper sticker that said, "The best things in life aren't things". This sticker stopped me in my tracks. As a dog owner who's dog is constantly eating "Things", it gave me some real perspective. It also struck me profoundly and made me start to think about the REAL important "things" in life.

Think about it...

The "things" our dogs eat (no matter how expensive or valuable they are) are just things. They don't matter in the scheme of "real things" - the relationships we have with our friends, our family, and even our lovable furry friends, our dogs.

First off, most "things" can be replaced. My girlfriend already has a new pair of prada shoes - the exact same kind Watson destroyed.

Secondly, when your dog eats a "thing" it makes for a great story... Just go to my site to see all the amazing stories that are the result of dogs eating "things".

It's Love - The love you have for your dog, and the love your dog has for you - that truly defines "A Best Thing in Life".

Maybe dogs are even trying to tell us that by eating all our "things" - it's their way of showing us what's truly important in life - THEM!

Who knows... Maybe dogs are smarter than us altogether. They intuitively understand that "the best things in life aren't things" - Why else would they love eating and destroying them!


http://www.thingsmydogate.com - "The Daily Dog Tail"

Dogs and the Internet

By Matthew Goodman

For the first time in human history, the individual has the tools to change the world... Seriously. All it takes is a computer, a unique perspective, a blog or YouTube channel, and the passion to make positive change!

Get enough people to listen and believe in you, And, boom! you will make a difference in this world.... hopefully for the better.

I know I've simplified the process a bit. but if you have the passion and creativity, the Internet is truly your digital playground.

But where do our dogs fit in... They aren't able to use computers (no one has invented an ergonomic paw-friendly key board). And the internet, I'm afraid, is a little over their heads...

That's why as humans we need to be our dogs' voice on this new digital platform... We need to upload their videos on YouTube, and even give our dogs their own blogs.... It might sound far fetched, but we need to do it with passion and zeal!

Sites like mine serve that exact purpose. Luckily I am not alone... There are other great dog websites on the internet - Dogster, Dogguide.net, k9mania.com - that give dogs a true voice on the Internet. And with 6-8 million dogs being euthanized every year our dogs need to be heard!

The Million Barks Project (yesterday's entry) is another chance to give our dogs a voice in this new digital/global world.

Right now I am working on a separate site, to maximize our power as a community of dog lovers. Not only will the site be interactive, but it will make you look at the world from a completely different perspective - your dog's.

I want to leave you with One Final Thought:

The internet can transform an idea into reality almost over night ... That is the audacity I have for "The Million Barks Project"... To save dogs' lives over night!

However, it won't be our voices that will be heard.

For the first time in recorded history, It will be our BARKS!


http://www.thingsmydogate.com - "The Daily Dog Tail"

Luxury Dog Beds - Style Without Pinching Your Pocket

By Mark Joness

Today, luxury is synonymous with comfort for us and even dogs are no exception to this. The day you brought your dear pet to your home, it was just another member of the family. Since that day, it is your responsibility to take care of his entire needs. If you wish to offer complete comfort to your pet, then luxury dog beds would definitely suit your purpose. Being such an active animal, your dear pet deserves a proper place to rest and sleep. When you move out to shop a bed for your dear pet, you are likely to encounter a large number of options. Some luxury beds may come with different patterns, shades and so on. But, are you aware of what exactly you should consider while choosing luxury dog beds for your dear pet. Let us know everything about what it takes to find a luxury dog bed at nominal rates.

A comfortable sleep is must to rejuvenate your pet and for his entire well-being. Luxury beds are most suitable, not only because it goes well with the surrounding of your home, but also because these are equally comfortable for your dear friend. Most of the luxury beds are available along with comfortable accessories to offer your pet an exalted experience. Comfortable cushions, mattresses, spacious dimensions and what not. You may find it a little expensive because of the luxury and amazing designing included in these dog beds.

If you are worried about budget constraints, then online services are a perfect solution for you. A large number of pet stores are available online, you can benefit from the cut throat competition existing among various online providers. Explore rates from more than one provider and go for the one that you find most lucrative. Don't compromise over the comfort of your priced possession and never settle for anything less than the best. Always make sure that you have thoroughly understood the usage terms of the online providers to avoid any chaos later on.


Mark Joness is the content author of the Dogs Center. After studies at the University of Alabama, he has been involved in teaching english and creative writing. To find luxury dog bed, pet beds, dog beds, pet stores must visit http://www.dogscenter.net/

Insulated Dog Houses For the Winter Months

By Lindy Smart

Keep your best friend warm and cozy with an insulated dog house. After all your dog gives you so much enjoyment it is only fitting to give him a comfortable house when you are not home and he or she is outside in the cold air.

Insulated dog houses are top notch quality made. The insulated cedar dog houses are constructed tongue and groove. The insulated dog houses are made of only the best wood and that wood is cedar. With such high quality you know this dog house will last for a very long time. You will be keeping your dog warm and the dog house will not look like an eye soar in your backyard. Instead you will have others wondering where you bought your cedar dog house.

Another benefit of a cedar insulated house is the roof that easily removes. You can simply take the roof off and clean your dog's home. No more crouching down and trying to clean out your dog's house.

The door is not directly in the center but off to one side. This will keep your dog warmer by being able to sit behind the larger part of the wall. You want to keep your adored pet safe from below zero wind chills, rain, hail, etc., when you cannot let him or her in the house if you are not home.

Cedar insulated dog houses come in a variety of sizes for your dog. Small, medium, large and extra large homes for your adored dog.

You can also purchase a climate control unit to go with your insulated dog house for even greater comfort.

You insulate the house you live in so why wouldn't you insulate your beloved dog's house? Get your dog an insulated dog house and watch his tail wag when he or she thanks you for your love and kindness.


Training a Gun dog Isn't Hard - Lesson 8, Hunting Your Ground - What You Are Aiming For

By Ken Devonald

It is considered a sin in gun dog circles

If a dog misses game, for example running past a hidden rabbit or pheasant. Realistically it happens, but is best avoided especially if you are intending to run in field trials. To minimize the risk of this happening, it is necessary for the dog to concentrate on air scent rather than foot scent. If a dog is allowed to put it's nose down to foot scent regularly, it is unlikely to use air scent as readily, and it is likely to follow the trail rather than covering the ground methodically.

Foot scent has its' uses, specifically in the retrieve, but for hunting, discourage it gently but firmly.

So, what are you hoping to achieve?

Imagine you are out working your HPR (or Spaniel) looking for rabbits, the ground you are covering is fairly open, with patches of thistles or nettles. The Sun is up and it is shaping up to be a pleasant morning. The field I have in mind is maybe 500 to 600 yards long, 100 yards wide. We enter from behind a willow bed, planted to clean the outflow from the septic tanks which handle the waste from the half dozen houses 100 yards up the hill. There is a reed bed first, and the whole tank area is surrounded by plants that were a lot more common 50 years ago. Plenty of rabbits in there, but I never fancy eating them for some reason.

You intend getting some rabbits (for a pie; there is no better way to eat them that I have found; except maybe pan fried; but that is another discussion!), so you have you gun over your arm, or your Harris Hawk on your fist. The dog is walking quietly but alertly (maybe a little impatient, but she is not whining!) at heel. Before you open the gate (you could climb over, but the gun would like as not clang against the gate) you check the field for cattle; Jim has had the bull in with the newly calved cows, and you are well aware that the dogs will upset the cattle and you will both have to leave at speed if they are down by the river that bounds the far end of the field.

To the left is a wood that runs for two hundred yards, holds a few rabbits and a rookery. After the first two hundred yards it gives way to a double fenced drainage ditch running down to the river; the water maybe 4 or 5 feet across, six inches to a foot deep, with a rough grass bank either side varying from a yard to 4 wide. The ditch holds the occasional duck or two; the grass holds the very occasional snipe or woodcock and the more common rabbit, with sometimes a pheasant coming across from neighbouring shoots. To the right a drystone dyke (wall) runs all the way down to the river, holding some rabbits.



After the first hundred yards, the thistles and nettles give out, and from there on the field is virtually bare grass until the last 50 yards before the river, when the thistles reappear. There is a large marshy area between the fenced end of the field and the river; a large bend in the river moves it away from the end of the field and leaves a boggy patch that holds odds and sods.

As in any dream scenario, the wind is blowing from across the river along the length of the field straight towards you. With the HPR you intend working the field up to the end of the woods by walking straight up the middle; then moving back to the start of the woods and working the close cover there before working the ditch down to the river. With a spaniel, you intend working the thistle area first, in two passes; then the wood; then the ditch.

No cattle; so you are safe continuing. You send the dog off to the right and she runs straight along the fence; one or two momentary checks as she picks up some scent, but then she runs on to the fence, turns into the wind and moves on ten or fifteen yards before turning back across the field, passing across in front of you and heading towards the woods; she intends going on into the woods, you can tell by the way she is gathering herself so you give a double peep on the whistle to turn her back towards you.

Meanwhile you have started to walk forward slowly, and she moves upwind to keep in front of you, crossing five yards further into the field than you are; She has barely passed in front of you when she slams to a halt; head turned at right angles almost, and staring intently towards a patch of thistles. You move quietly towards her, approaching from the same angle that she has; and when you are slightly behind her you give her the command to flush; she slams into the thistles and starts bunny hopping; bouncing on her back legs and head spinning to locate the flushed rabbit; the rabbit runs upwind, the dog stops to watch and you bowl it over with a single shot; the rabbit is stone dead in the open, and the dog is now looking at you, wondering if she is going to be sent for the retrieve. Since it is so simple, you pick it up yourself, squeeze out the bladder to empty the urine and put it in your bag.

You then cast the dog on in the direction she was heading. After a few more passes she comes on point again; gentler than the last time because she has picked up the scent from further away; she takes a pace or two towards the cover the rabbit is in and then stops. Again you move into position and give the command to flush; this time the rabbit runs away in line with the dog; best not to shoot over her so you wait until the rabbit turns and heads towards the wall on the right; unfortunately you hit the rabbit but misjudge it slightly and the rabbit continues into the cover of a large clump of thistles. The dog is watching you and glancing back at the spot the rabbit disappeared; waiting for ten seconds (even when urgent you do not want the dog to pre-empt your command) you then send the dog. She streaks out towards where the rabbit disappeared, ignoring a rabbit that she disturbs on the way; this is a retrieve and she knows that it is more important than hunting. When she gets to the point where you hit the rabbit her head goes down and she follows the foot trail into the thistles; another rabbit is flushed but she ignores that; then she reappears with the wounded rabbit; being carried gently (it's head is still held up), she comes directly back to you; sitting squarely in front of you with her head up she lets you take hold and with the command 'leave' she lets you take it and you dispatch it.

Now to the wood...

In the next discussion we will cover some of the techniques to let you get to the stage described.


Ken Devonald has two German Short haired Pointers and has previously trained spaniels. He lives and works in the Scottish Borders, where he has plenty of opportunities to train his dogs to work rabbits.

He is currently developing a Gun dog Training Site, which you can visit here!

Prevent Your Dog From Jumping on You

By Jon Dakins

Prevent your dog from jumping on you and your friends by changing the house rules.

Start teaching him the right way to behave inside.

The first topic to tackle is the house rules. When it comes to exuberant greetings, people have different opinions about what behavior can be permitted. The good news is that you get to decide and you can be inconsistent as long as you are consistently inconsistent. To do that, you just have to set simple yes/no rules and stick to them.

Yes you can jump on me. No you can't jump on Aunt Ellen.

Once you have decided what the rules will be it's time to break the news to your dog. Training tools are an easy way to make fast changed. Static electricity mats can be placed on furniture that you want to protect (they have the advantage of working when you are gone so you won't end up with a napping dog when you are gone). Dog gates and crates can be used to restrict his free access to the door.

To break him of the habit of jumping on you at the door you have to be consistent and not respond with laughs, pats on the head, or scolding. Simply enter and, when he begins to jump up, tuck your arms in and turn in the other direction. Do not touch the dog to greet him or to push him off. Do not talk to the dog to greet him. Do say Down or Get Off in a calm, firm voice. Turn away and avoid rewarding the behavior.

When your dog tries to jump on you while you're sitting, simply tuck your arms in and lean forward.

For dogs that have been jumping for a long time you will encounter an "extinction burst." This means that he will try jumping more when you begin ignoring him because he is trying to get a response. This increase in the behavior will die out when it doesn't get him what he wants.

If you will be allowing your dog to jump on you, but not on guests, then it is important to a) Give him a visual clue that says it's okay to jump and b) Practice the Down or Get Off command so that he knows to put four on the floor when you tell him to. If possible, have a dog loving friend role-play as the visitor.

Additional steps to take include selecting a place for your dog to wait for guests to greet him and training him to sit on command no matter what the excitement level. If he's sitting, he can't be jumping.


Prevent Your Dog From Jumping on the Furniture

By Jon Dakins

Protect your furniture by stopping your dog from getting on the couch.

Start teaching him the right way to behave inside.

The first topic to tackle is the house rules. When it comes to naps on the couch, people have different opinions about what behavior can be permitted. The good news is that you get to decide and you can be inconsistent as long as you are consistently inconsistent. To do that, you just have to set simple yes/no rules and stick to them.

Yes you can get on the gray couch. No you cannot get on the suede sofa.

To correct issues with jumping on the furniture you have to prepare for owner-absent problems. The best way to handle these behaviors is to establish a space for your dog (crate or gated area) where he can be when he is not supervised. If you are going to let him roam, then you can take other steps to prevent access to the sofa or comfort when he is on it. Access can be restricted by placing items in front of the sofa (for example TV trays or an ottoman that prevents him from climbing up.) Additionally, consider the possibilty of placing a couch cover over the furniture. That keeps the sofa safe while your dog gets to enjoy its comforts.

You can also leave crinkly aluminum foil on furniture you want to protect (make sure it doesn't scuff up the furniture in the process!) to make his landing - and potential nap - as uncomfortable as possible.

One thing to keep in mind when you find your dog on the couch is that you should not drag your dog off the couch by his collar. There are two main reasons for this. 1st if your dog gets loose a friendly by-stander may help by catching your dog for you. And 9/10 times he will grab the dog by the collar. That is what people do and so you want to avoid ever punishing your dog by grabbing his collar. Never start with that move or include it. It's pure silliness that can lead to a bite.

2nd he might bite you then and there. So for your sake and other people's, don't grab that collar. Instead use the leash or offer him a treat reward for getting off the couch (yes - that can increase his jumping on the couch in the future, so if you do find he's too stubborn to get down and you have to hand out the treats, make your next step blocking access. We're talking safety here - not rewards for bad behavior).

Jumping is an access issue. Control his freedom to get to people at the door and to furniture in the house and you will resolve the issue. If you want to be greeted exuberantly then teach him a visual signal and also add Down or Get Off to his training cue set. If letting him on one piece of furniture, but not all, then tell him the rule. Encourage him to jump on "his" couch while preventing access to the others. If you are consistent with your inconsistency he will soon learn the house rules and give you exactly the behavior you want.